Aug 25, 2010

DEVIL's advocate....


God, Politics, Sports teams….

Those “American” things that either rip us apart, or bind us forever… but in reality, albeit Sunday morning church, Sunday afternoon football and what percentage of taxes come out of your paycheck, what gives?

Oh the internal struggle? Prayer, which plays in an integral part everyday for some. Does how we celebrate our GOD, recognize that omnipresent, omnipotent chunk of our decision making really even make a big different in the big scheme of things, or a difference at all? These are questions that ruminate, during the days compromised of phone calls and research, running errands and picking up food. When time is broken apart by being rear-ended or an unanticipated argument. Dissected by the unexpected departure of someone dear to our hearts, or the entry of new friend who haphazardly showed up, or a new baby. You can’t help but ask yourself. What are the prerequisites for a GOD to exist?

What has to happen in my life to believe that in all actuality it never really has belonged to me?

Do people change? Do they ever come to believing in something bigger than themselves? I asked a Christian why they’re so blatantly against atheists and his response was, “they believe in themselves, and that is just selfish.” But is it entirely selfish to believe that we control our own control fate, destiny, that is our individual responsibility to execute this life either with a robust appetite for color and travels, for deep and sentimental relationships, for emotions…. Without God can we fully experience sadness? I only wonder because if we’re truly a product of random molecules and our tear ducts manufacture those wet drops that are associated with emotion, and if emotion is simply a figment of our imagination, a visceral reaction to an emptiness, or some Freudian excuse?

Is there something worth being sad about if the afterlife is comprised of dirt and decomposition? And all that stuff referred to miracles are merely gibberish, coincidence at most, frivolity that is a waste of effort and ambition, and frankly, time?

There is something inherently liberating about living your life only believing yourself... that we're not all "one source of energy" we're "all brothers of Adam and Eve." That actually, what you see is what you get? What you understand is YOUR truth. You’re floating in this present moment, in the now, it is tangible and simple. There aren’t the Ten Commandments to untangle; there isn’t the spiritual journey to somehow aid us in the being unafraid of the “beyond”. To an atheist the end, is very simply game over. There is no judgment, no golden gates and with the possibility of heaven, also arrives the possibility you’ll spend eternity with Sisyphus …. Seems rather monotonous, miserable? And completely illogical.

And what is there to do with the obvious sinners… those who commit abhorrent, devastating and insane crimes, the schizophrenic sinners, who are 100% convinced that their kamikaze ways are in fact sacrificial, an appeasement to their higher being, then what? Then you’ve got the evangelicals, the crusades, and the holocaust. And then the countless periods in history, some so horrific they’re left out of social studies textbooks when religion screwed many of a minority.

There is nature, intricate and delicate flowers…. The weather, powerful hurricanes and tornadoes, you’ve got cancer survivors and innocent children who’ve been ruthlessly murdered. There are the ways of the pagan, the “spiritual seeker”… all the hybrids, the in-betweens who while legitimate still cannot answer the one-answer humans have questioned:

IF you strip GOD of the Koran, Bible, the Torah and every other religious text that is the acclaimed guidebook for the future of humanity beyond planet earth…. You can’t help but wonder what’s left?

Aug 17, 2010

Redeye: Denver to Boston...



Month seven on crutches, two months out of the hospital. I was finally allowed to travel.

I apologized to the blond, balding security officer for my overstuffed bag; he was unfazed by the magazines, un-capped lipstick and sticky receipts. But his jaw dropped when he reached the clear zipper bag. This was where I kept my orange bottles of prescriptions, fourteen in total.

Each night I’d brush my teeth, standing like a flamingo on my one leg, since the other leg was defective. With a large glass of water I’d start left to right, slowly swallowing each pill. The color and texture and the after taste reminding me exactly what was wrong. I’d try to distract myself by reading the directions on my mouthwash, but the red pill never failed to remind me of my stomach problems or the white that my blood platelets weren’t high enough, or the yellow that I had premature arthritis.

Crutches are great, but the real hookups were when I was in a wheelchair. My friends took me to a Dave Matthews concert and we were led to the front row. We relished the sweat and the spit of his guitarists. There are the bonuses, like parking in a handicap spot and not feeling guilty. But that’s where they ended.

After getting off the train and making my way to the gate, I had forgotten that handicap people board last. There is a woman quietly sitting in a wheel chair a few feet away from me. Around fifty, her chair was beaten up, with a fanny pack slung around her waist. I collapsed next to her. She said hello and we chatted for a few minutes before the flight attendant waved to both of us, signaling that it was our turn to board.

I took a deep breath prepared to grin and bear the wrath of the punctual travelers, as I was the habitually late, always the last to board. But when my eyes met those belonging to the passengers around me, there was no irritation; instead I was greeted with sympathy.

I had the entire first row to myself, so quickly fell into a deep, vicodin-induced slumber. Until Mr. Charisma showed up.

Mr. Charisma nodded, then took the remaining gulp of his cocktail. “Born in 1981 with two older siblings and Republican parents. They’re decent folks, I promise. They bought me GI-Joe. The boys would rip off their head and slingshot the figurines at the girls during recess. I preferred to dress GI-Joe in my sister’s Barbie clothes.

Pausing to catch his breath, he continued. “Football season in 7th grade, I was the quarterback, great hand-eye coordination, but when Blake Mainer hiked the ball, it hit me in the face. I was too busy staring at his delectable ass. So I had to quit. Imagine facing sexy boys in the locker room everyday? But it wasn’t until my second year in college that I officially came out of the closet. My parents called it a phase, a stage, an act of rebellion; my father was ashamed that I was his son. So I packed up a U-Haul and moved to Colorado, where nobody could remember me as straight.”

“So you’re gay and your parents won’t accept it?” Spilled out of my mouth before I could suck it back in.

“100% tried and true. It’s been several years since I relocated to Colorado. Since then my father has learned to accept and embrace me, sexual preference and all.”

“So what’s so terrible about going home?” I asked.

“Well, I have some news, and it isn’t the type of news you break over the phone.”

But before he could tell me the news, the woman across the aisle, the same woman waiting at the gate with me, who’d been snoring the whole flight, was stirring.

“Oops. We were too loud.” I said.

“Wonder why she got a special ‘handicap seat’. Bitch.” He said.

I pointed to where her left leg should have been. In its place, nothing.

“Whoa. We’ve got a paraplegic on the plane.”

“It gets worse. She lost her leg when she was 24-years old. She was a
swimmer.”

We both stared. It’s impossible to envision her swimming. I estimated she weighed at least 200 pounds. Her hair is mouse brown, an ageless man-cut, perfected at Great Clips. Her apparel consisted of leggings and a sweatshirt that read, “Best Aunt in the World.” I wondered how this woman could let herself go like that? Did she own a comb? But, who was I to judge?

She resembled Roseanne.

“She fell back asleep.” He pointed.

“Phew. So guess how she lost her leg?” I whispered.

He scooted closer.

“Staph infection.” I said.

“Shut up. How do you know?” He said.

“We were waiting at the gate together. Thank God the flight attendants interrupted our conversation before she could ask why I was on crutches. Imagine how’d she feel if she knew I had staph infection too. Only I didn’t need my leg amputated.”

“So what’s your news?” I asked.

He took a deep breath.... he gave me a once over and decided to trust me. “It was the 4th of July. I was visiting some friends in Los Angeles. We were at a posh club. Instead of normally crawling into a corner with my cocktail, insecure and envious of those carefree people on the dance floor, trying to dissect the gay from the straight. I took the opportunity to be extroverted. It was so fun. It was also a mistake.”

“How is that a mistake?” I asked.

“Honey, be patient okay. This is the premise. I’ll get to juicy stuff in a moment.”

“Oh I’m sorry.”

“So there were velvet ropes, bouncers, and exclusive VIP lists. Inside was even better. Plush leather couches, chandeliers, and more exquisite bodies than a summer Vogue issue. The women were all panthers. And the men, oh the men were glorious. Each man a variation of Adonis, this was a heaven of sexual erotica. And I got drunk.”

I nodded.

“Being curious and somewhat confident in my new Versace jeans, I followed a particular group into one of the private VIP rooms. Before I realize what is happening, a tall woman, a glamorous model, a gazelle is introducing me to her “gay” friend. So giddy that there is another, and even more excited because I could tell he was giddy too. Freed from all the straights, we chatted and danced and kissed. He made me feel so warm and welcome and, accepted.”

“Why do I think that this doesn’t have a good ending?” I said.

“Oh Peach, the ending has happened yet. But it will. And soon.”

He made no sense.

“When he invited back to his loft, I couldn’t refuse. I had kissed men before, but I was always too nervous to go beyond. It was an opportunity to finally lose my “homo” virginity. Kissing led to other things. And that is when the night got fuzzy.”

I bit my lip, “Then what?”

“And then I woke up in foreign bed, with a pounding headache and not a soul in sight. It was my first one stand and I didn’t even know the name of the guy. The house was empty, he had left with no phone number, no note, nothing. I grabbed my wallet embarrassed, feeling dirty, and walked to the nearest street corner.”

“Everyone has had a one-night stand. It’s okay.” I reassured him from second-hand knowledge.

“The irony is not that that it was the first one night stand; the irony is that it was also my last. I was diagnosed with HIV about three months ago.”

Through his thick glasses I stared into his eyes. The sparkle wasn’t a natural high. It was desperation to connect, to unearth anyone who could extract value from his disease. He had to somehow logically make sense of the terminal illness, the kind that doesn’t give you a second chance.

“You see darling, you’re not the only one infected on this plane.”

Unsure whether to laugh or to cry, I instead reached across the armrest and patted his arm, “I’m so sorry.”

“Oh Peach. It’s okay. Just promise me you won’t do anything stupid because you’re scared. Do stuff because it makes you strong.” He said.

“Deal.” I couldn’t hide the tears I was shedding for this sweet man sitting next to me.

We both heard rustling from across the aisle. The woman was definitely awake. We huddled watching her; coddling our alcoholic beverages.

It was obvious by her large eyes she didn’t want to cause any trouble. She glanced up at the glowing “call” button, but decided not to push it, which would wake everyone up. Déjà vu hit me like a freight train. The constant pride I had to swallow when requesting that my peers or professors or the janitors help carry my book bag or hold my hand in the stairwell. Or at home I would beg, needing assistance with everything, from shaving my legs to putting on socks.

Watching her try to balance her 200-pound body on her one functional leg, I cringed. I assumed her artificial leg was in the overhead bin; she was trying to get to the lavatory. My legs didn’t work either, so I nudged new friend. He jumped out of his seat to rescue the paraplegic.

Instead of being stubborn, she was gracious. He lifted her arm around his shoulders, so he could play the role of her missing leg. It took several minutes to cross the ten feet separating her seat from the toilet. With every second that passed, I experienced less pity, they don’t need it, what surfaced, was admiration.

He stood by the lavatory, protecting her. The few passengers who had woken up by the commotion glanced at him, assuming they were together; he was her son. But the truth; they were only strangers.

Their bodies are so fragile and their spirits so durable. And this indiscernible thing called life hung in the balance.

My new friend plopped back in his seat, “So, back to my story.”

“Yes.” I said. It was 4am and I was exhausted, but I didn’t care.

Aug 11, 2010

IRONY'S ugly cousin


Irony’s ugly cousin….

You’re 100 yards from the entrance of Starbucks when you spot a tall, masculine, seemingly gorgeous man reading a newspaper. Even though he is turned away from you, you notice a baseball hat and what appear to be glasses, which screams Wall Street Journal. All near-sighted people are geniuses. Even from this distance you recognize that laid-back look, sporting a button-down polo and khakis that frame a perfectly chiseled ass. Yes, you know the man I’m talking about… he is sans a wedding ring, and his smile illuminates sparkling white choppers. Now only fifty yards away, you silently squeal with delight because he hasn’t moved… A small thought, barely a thought at all…a mere possibility begins to bubble, maybe from the corner of one of his sparkling blue eyes he has spotted you and is gearing up for your arrival (he watched you climb out of your car). You’re checking your ponytail for stray wisps, applying lip glass and wrapping up your cell phone call, so you’ll be hands free when you ask for directions, even though you have the newest GPS system. For where? Hmm. You haven’t exactly decided… "May I have directions to your heart, or even better… can I mapquest your home?”

In less than a few seconds the fantasies include long embraces on the beach, your back is arched, (yoga classes have paid off), there is moonlight, there are waves crashing, oh yeah… there is the faint music of the orchestra from afar. He is whispering sweet nothings in a husky voice; no better… sweet something’s. into the nape of your neck, which double as soft kisses. You’ve forgone your insecurities in your ratty sweatpants because suddenly a few seconds of mystery has concocted an abstract, yet entirely plausible reality… people meet and fall in love all the time, all over the globe. Maybe it’s your turn to taste that succulent fate Hollywood and happy couples boast about... As you round the corner with anticipation, blushing about this soon-to-be salacious encounter.

And before you can gasp… this man, this undiscovered gem of a male specimen who you were so convinced was utterly perfect in every delectable way…is a freaking, lifeless, faceless, mannequin.

Yep. It’s the kind compliment you hear secondhand, that you soon discover was about the “other” Jennifer in the office.

Your boyfriend is watching you apply your makeup with admiration and focus… then you see ESPN in the mirror’s reflection.

The $1000 check on your desk with your name printed in large letters is actually an HR mistake.

After twelve concerts your heartthrob finally recognizes you and is staring into your eyes over his guitar strings. His girlfriend is standing directly behind you.

A beautiful pair of Calvin Klein pants easily zip around your waist, and when you check the tag, you notice it is a size 4, which is a sign from GOD you should own them. Then the saleswoman "happens" to mention it was mistagged and is really a size 6.


Three things happen:
1. You jump for joy.
2. Fall into a pit of rejected despair.
3. YOU FORGET that pre-mannequin, HR idiot and foggy mirror… not of the above mattered, because you didn’t know it existed.


So in a world where international news arrives in twitter updates, we gather local news from our friend’s facebook wall posts, and the Internet adult playground “2nd world” is causing real-world divorces, why the hell should we stop a few fantastical seconds from enhancing our life? Hell… in world driven by over stimulated and immediately validated populous, relish the moment when you believed the above were true, because I’m going to let you in on a little secret…

John Mayer sings, “There is no substitute for time.” And trust me…. Even my hard drive is collecting dust from photographs circa 2004. I’m not worried about the time we can’t get back… the seconds, the hours, and the years that calendars devour with a voracious appetite…. It isn’t that stuff that worries me… it is the emotions we cannot relive. For every sad moment, is a happy moment lost?

Chances, odds and every other indicator suggests that no, you will not win the lotto, but once in awhile your significant other will admire you while you’re not watching, or you’ll be given a bonus or meet your hubby at a coffee shop… don’t sell yourself short, enjoy the maybes…. But more importantly let them go. Don’t gauge your happiness on a letdown that wasn’t ever supposed to be. Am I suggesting you lie to yourself? Hell no… I’m just saying, live a little… enjoy the ride… and just because it isn’t true, in a moment or in a year… I mean let’s face it. Today your lover is alive, but tomorrow he could die in a motorcycle accident, doesn’t mean today doesn’t exist. Are you following my thinking here? For the pure moment you believed something to be real, your brain registered it as real. Now you know that you can’t cash that check, nor can you buy the same pants in a different color, but you can revel in the moment that it, however fleeting did exist.

Because this life belongs to only one person. That is you. These moments, the thoughts, the agonies, the blunders that shake us, delete perfect people who while have the best or worst of intentions shared in on “our” time… don’t let what ended up happening ruin what already has. I struggle with this, but I know that deep down this postulate holds true. I was at the gym and noticed this guy from my office who always manages to make me feel dumb. A few machines away I decided to show him who was boss... I pushed myself really hard… I know I’m shallow and competitive. An hour and 1000 calories later I turn around beet red, to prove something. But of course, it wasn't him. It was some poor stranger who was confused as to why he was getting my weird stares. But had I know that.... my workout wouldn’t have been as good….

I’m just saying those little triggers in life explain a lot about ourselves, so pay attention. And now… damn my calves look good. Sometimes it’s the mannequins, the placebos, and the leap years…

Jul 7, 2010

Dodging Destiny


I struggle to understand why the children, with their tattered clothes beg us to take pictures of them, with them… Sure, their innocent smiles warm even the most frigid of travelers, and similar to the American 7-year-olds, they have few missing teeth, but no tooth fairy in El Crucero, there aren't even pillows. Maybe they assumed we needed photographs to prove of our benevolent efforts; parade around our experience to get the kudos from Americans back home. But why would the innocent children jump for joy when pointing a lens their way. Another poster child of poverty perhaps. Maybe they subconsciously were aware that we were slowly collecting data, proof of their malnourishment, or maybe they just wanted to be remembered.

They knew if we, brought photos of them back home, posted to the internet and maybe to print for a hardcopy handout, that their faces wouldn't be forgotten, their existence not lost in the shuffle of the Nicaraguans who never see inside the outskirts of Managua.

But as their small fingers point in delight at their own image on the screen of the small digital camera, I realize it isn't about capturing a memory, it isn't even about their relationship with Americans. It is quite simple…. These children haven't seen their reflection before, they're seeing themselves for the first time. The children don't squabble, they share and play together peacefully. They don't have the luxury of crying or wanting or needing.

Inside the clinic I stand in the doorway watching the heavy rain pound the already muddy ground. Steam rises and the faint outline of the ocean is breathtaking. I'm holding a little girl about six-months old, rocking her back and forth, she flutters her chocolate brown eyes and I cannot help but kiss her soft jet-black hair. Her pink outfit is dirty and her feet are bare and my heart is breaking as I become gravely aware of the journey ahead of her. Until she is five or six she will play with the little boys, the other children, she will be hungry and sometimes sick, but she won't be cognizant of this hell. A few years later she might see a television with Dentine commercials and kids playing with brand-new toys. Hopefully she'll dodge incest, but she'll most likely become pregnant out of wedlock. She'll live on welfare, the welfare of a corrupt and crumbling government. She probably won't know how to read, and if so… it will be just enough to get by.

The genetic makeup of this little girl contains so many stories… is she the product of lovers or from abuse? Poor farmers or criminals maybe? The odds will work hard against her, and the chance of choice is one and a million, but until the vicious cycle generations before her, in this exact country, in this exact place begins again, she is pure, she is just another baby born into a confusing, chaotic, but often beautiful world. The rain has slowed and the butterflies dance in the fields not so far away. The little girl has woken up in the arms of a stranger, she coos, she is unafraid… I feel goosebumps because as a capable American I feel powerless, helpless… so I hold her tighter, knowing for at least a moment, I can protect her from her future.

When your eyes lock with another's for the first time… you absorb infinite amounts of information. The adults whose eyes reach my own all tell different stories. Some full of shame, others abundant of joy, some have found Jesus, others' haven't. It scares me to think that if I lived amongst this poverty if I could believe in a God. How can God exist in this pain, this hunger for the right to live. I was told this antecdote about a cabdriver. His wife who was eight months pregnant with his first child had an inoperable tumor in her left breast. It was malignant. She was going to die soon. They didn't know if it would be before or after the baby was born. This is normal here. THe pain and anguish is normal. And just as the children's feet harden against the jagged gravel, and their skin thick to the mosquitoes and their stomachs no longer growl, even when empty… Do their hearts harden after they've been worn thin since they were children?

The teenage girls are giggling and whispering in Spanish. We're tearing the rappers off of the hard candy and sitting on a large rock together. One is wearing leftover sneakers from the 90s, the second a ripped sundress and the third a jean skirt with a dirty Laker's shirt. They don't feel embarrassed. They don't look at my new khakis with jealousy, however they do take turns trying on my sunglasses and holding onto my hand, as though I were a blind person taking turns leading me around the grassed area. They point out cousins or friends and explain in foreign tongue, the El Crucero dialect, that even with my semi-impressive Latin background I fail to comprehend. They're not unhappy, but I cannot understand their minds…. their world is so small, it is comprised of fifty or so people they've known since birth, beautiful landscape and four walls covered by a tin roof.

All the thoughts that pass through my brain… the To Do lists, the worries, the angst, the memories of a perfect date, a delicious conversation with a parent, a lecture I attended that stimulated my braincells, and the thoughts comprised of all the education, travels and eccentric friends alike - media, literature, opinions…. my brain could never be emptied of rich and vibrant streams of various forms of consciousness. I'm not assuming their minds are blank, or their thoughts trivial, or they're unequipped since the day they were born.

At church later that night a Spanish pastor all of twenty-four utilized a theory on Space and somehow, metaphorically tied it back to God's love for us. It was so interesting because I had just purchased the latest "Science Today" monthly publication… the feature talked about how the galaxy could be potentially losing energy, something about light pigmentation and its transformation is none like we've seen. Sure I've memorized the order of the planets and have a rough understanding how the whole "star" thing works, but this pastor, who from this village and yes, by the will of God found some nice people to take him in, to help him out, to give him the confidence required to go after dreams….

He basically talked about what is important to us…. Ak: our values, problems, likes and dislikes… then showed us how big we are in compared to the 300,000,000 star galaxy that the milky way is puzzled into… and then used that to explain the unbounded love that God has for us, and then Sarah jumped in to finish up his message. An American from Kansas, she arrived with the Peace Corps to teach Spanish several years ago. She fell in love with a native and since they live in a home and between teaching and schooling and feeding the poor, she tutors people like this pastor. She explained relativity, and even though we might feel insignificant in comparison to Saturn's suns, our problems and the size of our problems never change… and that stuck with me, and all of the attendees from El Crucero. Seated around me were people who had never walked fifty miles beyond this place, and yet they synthesized and understood that they are small compared to the stars, but their problems are still big to them. And even though my problems and my worries are so different from theirs, and maybe insignificant in comparison, they're still my own and I cannot change that.

And then I didn't feel so bad.














7/4/2010 ...

July 3rd, 7pm.
The sun has just set and the haze from the volcanic ashes make the few stars that much more enchanting. There are eight American children standing in a makeshift church in the outskirts of Managua, Nicagura; surrounding them are several dozen children from the small town of El Crucero. An observer can easily separate these children into two groups by the color of skin, the language they sing and their quality of their clothing, albeit these differences, there is something that all of these children share in common, a dedication to make the streets of El Crucero safer, healthier and a more promising place. That, and their love for the Lord.

This isn't the type of church that includes a Sunday school and a choir, there is no crowded parking lot and brunch at the Pancake House afterwards. A small dirt road will carry you thirty minutes into the mountainous terrain of El Crucero, the lush hillsides are misleading, with a population of only several thousand people, the poverty is fierce. A town running twenty kilometers long has less than a handful of homes with running water. This is the second poorest country on earth, and this is its poorest town. This is the stuff you find on the Discovery Channel.

The Trip:
Between the hurricane in Houston and a faulty engine at DIA, the fact we arrived last night is a miracle in itself. Two vans took Sean and Laura Tonner with kiddos Regan and Hunter in two, Then there is family number two; Sara and Jamie Hendren with kiddos Taylor, (along with her friend Jen), Abby, Jaelyn and Ellie… and cousin Ryan from Dallas. Then there are those from Phaseline, who have as much commitment to this project as the Tonners; Monica Owens, Liz Ryan, Jess Leyba and then there is a journalist, Ak: moi. For most on the trip, this is a familiar airport, they hug the van drivers hello, and for several on the trip this country, and the people are foreign… We lug the duffel bags into the motel, with its simple layout and picnic tables outside, we're eager to crawl into a bed, hopefully not an infested one. However, two of the girls (age 10) discovered a worm in their bunk… again, this is no first class accommodation. We're here as a group to provide medical care and hopefully some infrastructure in a struggling community. That said, these kids know that their idea of work is a few hours during a summer vacation, the kids that we'll see tomorrow morning live in an unending summer where school isn't an option and while some work for a meager penance, many go to sleep in dirty beds, unfed, some with fevers, and many don't know their parents and many will become parents far too soon from when they're ready.

While the photographs depict paradise, I've realized this is anything but….

So, I'm a journalist. I was brought on this trip after editing an article about The Project in El Crucero last summer for Denver Magazine, and since I've been intrigued, albeit the tragedy in Haiti, the sores in Nicaragua didn't occur over night, but have worn through the corruption, the poverty has withheld a civil war and the Red Cross handouts, but for some reason this village doesn't seem hopeless. So not in an attempt to save the world, but rather to quench some curiosity I packed my bags and my bug spray and prepared myself for the unknown.

The Day:
At The Clinic: Inside the small square building there is exposed brick and cement, and not the type people pay half a million for lofts in Lower Downtown…. and there were holes in the ceiling, a toilet that needed to be replaced, measurements and moldy dry wall to be torn down. But Sean, Jamie, Ryan, Taylor, Abby and Regan went after it and accomplished more than they planned. With some of the children of El Crucero helping carry the bits and pieces out to the trash, today they're rebuilding one of the walls.

At the Feeding Center: It took no time at all for Hunter to find his friends, many of the children whom stare at us, the white Americans with confusion… but when they see Hunter's open arms and kind eyes, they rush to him to play soccer and to have fun. The small children, the little girls and boys, those who needed laps to sit on, and hair to be played with, took quite a liking to Monica, Liz and Jess. I hung back with the teenage girls who took turns trying on my sunglasses. They devoured the rice and beans with hungry tummies and packed away more in plastic baggies to bring back to mothers and fathers.

Back At Church: After showering and putting on fresh clothes we all made our way back to the small town of El Crucero where we were greeted with Spanish music, a kid on a keyboard and another on the drums made harmonious music that yes, was quite Christian, but I'd be a liar to say it didn't entice me to dance some salsa. The elders held our hands and greeted us with the most grateful gestures as we left the small building, a square building put together by bricks I don't think we've felt closer to God.

As the day closed and we put the last of the cheese and pepperoni pizzas in our mouth there was a sense of peace and serenity. Far away from the bustle and stress of our day-to-day To Do lists, the highways and the car pools, the conference calls and deadlines, we're glad. But never for a moment are we not grateful that we can return to the chaos and the safety that is the United States. So as we embark on a 4th of July in the poorest country in Central America, and nearly the world…. we're never prouder to be Americans.

Jul 2, 2010

Is falling in love an American luxury?



In America we're blessed with deodorant and toothpaste, regular showers, and time to lollygag, and tenderly stare into each others eyes… Generally we're not worried if we'll be stopped at gunpoint, or a harmless influenza strain will kill us…. In America we fight over the remote control, and when it comes to food should get Mexican or Indian, or takeout… Generally, our lifestyles afford us the luxury to flirt, to tempt to allure, and ultimately manufacture the dream. The 2.7 children and homemade dinners and years of memories created inside a safe, white picket fence. Is this a product of necessity, no? But rather, amour? No…. we get to enjoy the luxury of choice.

It's 2:23 PM. I'm on a plane. I'm flying six-hours south of Denver, beyond the American boundaries, cell phone service, and entering a country where my tax dollars don't help anyone… Chances are that the couple my age in El Crucero is mid-twenties is trying to feed five kids… they're both undereducated and malnourished, they live in one-bedroom and have rotting teeth? Can they afford to fall in love?

I'm seated in the exit row, so I have plenty of foot room. It's a full flight. There are teachers, school teachers, engineers, mostly caucasians sipping on Coca Cola and eating muffins, I'm surrounded by the typical Americans. Most of them speak English, most of them have ridden on airplane before, I assume they've all seen Larry King Live… I can't help but ask, who will be the people to cross my path tonight.


I've been told as soon as I step off the plane to remove my jewelry and makeup. It will 100 degrees plus, it will be dusty and the streets smell like urine. I'm unprepared for the parentless children, there are those who are really sick, too sick to be saved. Those who steal, those who without choice, thanks to an unfair upbringing, are soulless.

But I'm most afraid, when I look into the eyes of a child who has never known her father, an old man who has never experienced hope, or a mother who has bore the children; from a rape…. Sure, there are the exceptions, those who slipped through the poverty and while still starving, survived. When I look into the eyes of these people, I'm terrified. Who will I see?

The Discovery Channel, the stories on Dateline, the anecdotes church goers bring back to dinner tables… I guess this is a "mission" trip, but what exactly is the mission? To bring America to Nicaragua, or bring some Nicaragua reality back home? Sure, i guess i've had a little experience. There was the summer spent in Brazil when I was sixteen. There were monkeys, ironically our long-lost cousins? Ha. The snakes and the cheerful songs of toucans that float amid the plush canopies of rain forest; foliage that supplied ample photographs…. vibrant flowers, the petals large and fragrant. And sure, there was poverty, but it was veiled under the mysticism of the tropics, the tribal traditions, and so…. it wasn't as tragic as I could fathom.

Demographics cut us into neatly organized boxes, where we can via identify hair color, religion and socioeconomic bracket. And somehow we calculate how much a person deserves. Whether that be from a fiscal standpoint or reverse discrimination. A chunk of America survives on our tax dollars and our empathy. But today i'm reaching outside consumerism and general hospitals, shopping malls and fast food, embarking outside the definable lines where my salary no longer gets to help people. The people in the poorest rural areas of Central America subsist on trash and handouts, the Christians and NGOs can offer… these people aren't even aware of pop culture and MTV and all the desires that catapult American's into that "dream", but we shouldn't be in denial that it is often these same things that are to blame for the eating disorders and the phobias and occasionally endorse the antidepressants. In an American spectrum where consumerism and comparison and competitiveness are capitalistic verbs, the drivers of our lives, what have we gained? But more importantly, when it comes to capitalism, what have we lost?

The ability to be human, perhaps?

Sure… they're helpless in many senses, but the photographs of the barefoot children depict something I don't notice when I flip through the Facebook photos, where my friends are shining in bright dressing, sharing steak and vacations to Europe. In America, we pull our children away from video games and TV in hopes they'll learn the required arithmetic; it is inarguable that children in third world countries are eager to learn, albeit an existence beyond the chains of poverty, is and that will always be a mirage. But, beyond the crime an the senseless acts of violence, you can find an unfamiliar life, one where the women have to support each other, the men spend days in the fields providing for their families….they don't have access to Advil, let alone antidepressants. Maybe survival levels the playing field, an existence void of standard and expectations, maybe it's simply simplicity.

Is this a first class guilt trip in which I've volunteered?

It is 4:30 PM. The plane is in a holding pattern because of the hurricane in South Texas. The pilot over the loudspeaker has alerted us that we will be late. The travelers are grumbling, without access to cell phone and email, they cannot reach their family and friends; some are annoyed that they'll now face the monster of holiday traffic, or the nuisance of rerouting flights. I get it. Spending an extra hour squished next to a bunch of strangers isn't my idea of a desirable Friday afternoon. But as I sip out of my Aquefina bottle and my manicured hand reaches for the valve to twist open the air conditioning, I immediately feel the stream of cold air. A small pleasure in the midst of designer clothes and new shoes…. my body is still human.

I don't look down at these fellow Americans whose feathers are ruffled because our Continental flight is taking longer than expected. The pilot cannot change the weather, the flight attendants can't appease every crying baby. Are we spoiled in our lavish lives, or are we deserving of our hard-earned efforts? I don't have any answers. Only many questions. What equalizes human? Is it the five senses… taste buds met with spices? Our bodies touched delicately, or maybe hearing the sound of enchanting music? Our bodies experience pain, heat, frighteningly cold air. I know some bodies are built for different conditions, but are all of hearts built the same?

As I shut down my new Apple laptop, I close my eyes… and I whisper a very selfish prayer. Not that I can help these starving kids, or sick babies, or orphans… Not even that I can offer them a helping hand or a glimmer of hope. I already know there isn't much hope. They're destitute and ill and uneducated and I don't know what a few days and a few Americans can do to change that, at least for the long term anyway.

These people don't have passports, they don't get to runaway… I get to go back to my world with healthcare and limitless opportunity, safe streets and delicious food and intellectual banter, and yes…. choice. And I guess I pray that I don't feel too guilty afterwards.

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